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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.